Khemer Culture

The past few days I've really gotten a taste of some of the authentic Cambodian customs and traditions, and as always, I feel like I've learned a lot! First, I went to a wedding on Friday night which was the sister of the director at CCH, whom I have never met before.... most of the staff at the orphanage was invited so I was more than thrilled to attend. However the reassuring feeling of knowing a few familiar faces did me no good, because I arrived on time around 6:00 and the rest of the teachers and volunteers didn't get there until well after 7:00. I was the only foreigner in the room, and it would be an understatement to say I received a few curious stares when I entered the party! One because I still speak very little Khemer, and was pretty lost in the way of what to say or how to act, and two because I was frighteningly undressed! All the women wore brightly colored dresses with sequences and rhinestones, while their hair was elaborately done in up-do's that would put my prom pictures to shame. They wore the most heavy make up, with stark white powdered faces - it's very in style here in Asia to appear to have pale skin. I on the other hand, was proud of myself for going out of the way to ask my friend to borrow some eye liner and eye shadow, which is more make up than I have worn in months! So ok, that was strike one, but I figured I had the whole night ahead of me to feel awkward, why stop with the entrance! I was seated a large table with a few boys who were attending the university here in town so they spoke a bit of English, but the gender roles are so intensely traditional here that they were too nervous to talk to me, and giggled anxiously throughout all of dinner... I felt like I was back in junior high. It was pretty amusing! Dinner was served on a round lazy Susan in the center of the table, and it seems that someone was playing a rude trick on everyone by making us use chop sticks to reach accross the table and pluck food up from the patters, and then carefully bring it back into our little individual bowls... each time we wanted to take one bite. I must say, I feel that I'm pretty comfortable with chop sticks, but not when forced to carry food a long distance and especially not when dozens of eyes are focued in my direction for diner time entertainment. I was doing pretty well until I spotted a plate of cashews (many of you might know that nuts are my weakness) and went for a little handful using my fingers. I felt some awkward stares, but by now I was feeling pretty used to it, so I opted to shrug it off. A bit later I noticed some of the men at my table using their chop sticks to individually pluck up the cashews one my one like pieces of sushi and drop them down their throats. Sorry, there is no way you can get me to eat nuts with chop sticks... so I stayed away from the cashew plate the rest of the evening. Ok, so everything began to get a bit less uncomfortable after dinner once people had had a few drinks... just like any wedding I suppose. Dancing begin, and of course I couldn't say no to the dance floor. By this time the CCH staff had arrived, and one of the other volunteers from Canada and I got talked into learning traditional Khemer dance. It was really fun and easy to pick up (although I'm not sure how Dan felt) and engaging in this traditional custom definitely helped to break the ice. I decided to stay on the dance floor for the rest of the night (since that seems to be where I felt the most comfortable) and made many friends... although the best part was, I still don't speak very much Khemer and no one around me spoke any English. With the music playing, our bodies swaying, and laughter guiding the way, I was amazed how dance had the power to bring us together. I was suddenly reminded that despite the customs and cultural differences, we were all just human beings, gathered together to celebrate the universal connection of love. I felt so close with all the beautiful people around me, as if I had known everyone for years! And yet when I said good-bye with the customary bow at the end of the night to the bride and groom, I still wasn't sure how to pronounce their names!

The next morning I caught an early bus to take the 6 hour trek through the country side towards Seim Reap, to visit the amazing ancient city Angkor with all it's incredible temples. During the 12th century, the Khemer empire was the most powerful in all of southeast Asia, and ruled a majority of the land for centuries. The king at this time made his people build many enormous temples, taking year to complete years to complete, in order to honor the spiritual gods, Hindu mythological deities as well as the Buddha. The most famous one built is called Angkor Wat and is by far the largest temple in the entire world. It has survived many civil wars as well as international disputes, and still stands tall in it's incredible magnificence. This is definitely a pride of Cambodian history because of it's deep connection to their roots. Up until this point in my trip, I had been so intensely focused on the genocide that had taken place here only 30 years ago, that I really could not see that there was so much other beautiful history to discover. I spent two full days riding a bike around the huge Angkor national park gazing at all the ancient trees and man made wonders, and yet I feel like I only scratched the surface of it's intense beauty. I'm not sure how to describe what the temples look like (I'll be sure to show you pictures when I get home) but here is my best attempt.

Although I was a hot and sweaty tourist walking around aimlessly under the almost unbearable heat, my surroundings made me feel like a princess from an ancient land. When you look at these temples from a distance, you feel completely struck with awe at how anyone could have built these structures with their bare hands. They are elaborately decorated from every peak with carvings and all sorts of stone work. Then as you walk inside, it becomes a maze of tunnels, stairs and entry ways... I loved getting lost and sitting down to just breathe in the history that was surrounding me. I tried to imagine what it would be like to live during that time, and I'm convinced I would have been one of the traditional Khemer dancers, preforming for the king's court! Not a bad gig I'm sure! Despite all the tourists visiting this famous sight, there was such a peaceful presence in the air. Maybe it's because it's so big and everyone was spread out over the massive grounds visiting difference temples, but I feel like when you are in a place with that much histroy, it definitely commands a deep respect. I visited Angkor Wat twice - on the first day to wonder around for hours, and on the second to catch the sun rise... and wow, was that incredible; to watch as the sky exploded with color, eluminating this touring structure. I felt like nature and man were intertwined in a beautiful dance, and that I was intruding by sitting back and watching it take shape. Another temple that struck me was one called Ta Prom and it has been completely untouched or renovated from the time it was built in the 12th century. It was incredible to see how nature had decided to take back it's land, as gigantic trees stepped over the temple to continue their growth on the roof and walls. Roots that themselves were bigger than most trees, seemed to passionately hug the entire temple, as if they were also proud of the history that once took place there. I am such a nature lover that I must admit, I was more blown away by these wise old trees than the temple itself.

Ok, I could go on and on for days about everything I saw at Siem Reap but I think the best thing is to hear it from me in person when I come home next week! I can't believe it's almost time to bring this journey to a close, really it's gone by so fast. I have a few days left with the children at the orphanage then it's off I go! I'm really looking forward to seeing you all and/or hearing your voices over the phone very soon!

Sending all my love
April